Finger strength is a hot topic among climbers, and for good reason. At our clinic, we work with many climbers, and hang boarding is often their go-to method for finger training, especially when preparing for a bouldering or lead climbing trip. While hang boarding has its place, there are more specific techniques that can be even more effective. In this post, we’ll break down three key methods for finger training: recruitment pulls, wall endurance sets, and feet-on campus boarding.

1. Recruitment Pulls for Strength Building

Many climbers use weighted hangs on a hang board to build strength through slow eccentric loading. However, this method can leave your fingers fatigued and increase strain on your pulleys, joints, and ligaments.

A great alternative? Recruitment pulls. These target concentric muscle activation, helping you build recruitment strength—the ability to quickly and effectively engage your finger muscles. Additionally, they produce less fatigue compared to eccentric loading.

How to Perform Recruitment Pulls:

Option 1: Hang board Recruitment Pulls - Stand below a hang board, choose a grip, and, use fingers to pull yourself into the hang board. Build tension towards max effort over 5 seconds, then rest for 5-10 seconds. Complete 3-5 reps per set and rest 2-3 minutes between sets (3-5 sets total).

Option 2: Tension Block Recruitment Pulls - Using a tension block, stand upright and pull into your chosen grip with proper alignment. Build tension for 5 seconds, then rest as above, following the same sets and reps structure.

2. Wall Sets for Endurance

To build endurance, train directly on the wall. Climbing with controlled movements and maintaining time under tension is key.

How to Perform Wall Sets:

• Select a wall angle that mimics your project (such as a kilter board or local gym wall).

• Climb slowly and maintain tension for 120-180 seconds.

• Rest for 5-10 minutes between sets.

• Complete 3-5 sets.

3. Feet-On Campus Boarding for Power

Power is your ability to generate force quickly—essential for dynamic moves and explosive bouldering sequences. Unlike strength, power can be challenging to train on a hangboard.

A great alternative is feet-on campus boarding. This method allows most climbers to train in the power zone effectively by maintaining speed and explosiveness with their feet on.

How to Perform Feet-On Campus Boarding:

• Perform 2-5 explosive reps on the campus board with feet on.

• Stop as soon as your speed decreases (quality over quantity).

• Rest for 2 minutes between sets.

• Complete 3-5 sets.

Training Smart: Block Periodization and Deloading

When planning your finger training, it’s essential to structure your sessions into blocks rather than training all areas simultaneously. For example:

• Start with a strength block (e.g., recruitment pulls)

• Follow with a shorter power or endurance block, depending on your goals

• Include deload periods to reduce fatigue and prevent overtraining

Final Thoughts

Incorporating recruitment pulls, wall sets, and feet-on campus boarding into your training program can help you develop well-rounded finger strength, endurance, and power. Remember to tailor your training blocks to your climbing objectives and listen to your body during recovery phases.

If you are new to this type of training we created a Hang Boarding for Beginners PDF that you can grab completely for free below!